STYLES MORGUE

The modern period is a very broad term for everything that happens after the 1920s. With the availability of ready made fashions as well as at home sewing machines and patterns, fashions change rapidly throughout this period. Each shift in style, color, or silhouette is a reaction to a political or social event or as a reverse of what the period before was doing. The further you go in the 20th century, the more clothing tends to be casual and comfortable.  

 

WOMEN: The 1920s left us with a masculine, body shape where women could prove that they were just as good as men and should have all the rights men have. The 1930s marks the shift of women back towards feminity. The waist on garments raises back up to the natural waist, the hems drop down towards the ankle to be more conservative. Skirts are slim and are cut on the bias to create a soft, clingy, and feminine look. Women began growing out the bobbed hairstyles from the 20s. We see short styles with curls close to the head. Fabrics are soft and flowly. There is a wide variety of prints and patterns for daywear. Pants are more acceptable particularly for sports. 

 

In the 40s, pants take a practical role when women take jobs from men that are going to fight in WWII. We shift to a more severe, military look. Garments have square shoulders many times with poofy epaulets, narrow hips, and skirts end just below the knee. Fabrics become utilitarian and are chosen based on practicality instead of aesthetics. The two piece suit for women becomes very popular. Women even begin wearing oversized men's button down shirts. Nylons are rationed and women paint their legs with makeup to give the appearance that they are still wearing seamed nylons. Hair for women become longer and more structured.

 

In 1947, Dior released the New Look shortly after the end of the war. Fabric was no longer rationed and the skirt became pleated and full. Each skirt was made of five yards of fabric. Jackets and skirts were padded out to shift the silhouette back to a manufactured feminine hourglass silhouette.

 

In the 50s, there is a shift in styles for the younger generation and the older generation. Younger girls wore poodle skirts, saddle shoes and capris worn with blouses tucked in. The older women stuck with the more conservative style of the 40s. However, full skirts and busts created the illusion of a tiny waistline. In addition the pencil skirt was popular. Women continued to wear a blouse and pants as we get more and more casual. Hair in the 50s gets shorter and softer, a more feminine look than the 40s. 

 

In the 60s, political choices caused a rebellion in dress. Women revert to a boxy, unfitted silhouette that remained narrow. There are women dressed conservatively, women following the Mod trend (Twiggy), as well as the Hippie movement. For women, a shift dress that was slightly a-lined was popular. Jackie O was a huge style icon for the conservative women. Tights become increasingly more important as hem lengths on dresses get shorter and shorter. 

 

In the 70s, garments become unisex. Both men and women wear caftans, jumsuits, platform shoes, and bell bottom pants. Fabric is super clingy and made out synthetic fabrics like polyester. There are bold prints but generally more conservative and earthy colors (compared to the neon that the mod movement wore). For women trumpet skirts and wider bottomed pants were popular. Culottes were also trendy because it was practical, but still gave a feminine look.

 

In the 80s exercise wear, designer jeans, and logos were the trends. Style icons included musicians, tv stars, as well as material girls. There is a general excess in fashion. Color, size and accessorization are over the top. Big hair, denim on denim, large shoulder pads were all popular. Waists were high. 

 

In the 1990s, the trends for women were baby doll dresses, denim, and grunge. There was a looseness and a softness of 30s fabric but the color and style of the 70s. More women dressed for casualness than did not. 

 

MEN: In the 30s, the width of men's clothies get wider. Wider pants, ties, and more boxy suit coats. Wide shoulders and wide lapels. Pants are creased and cuffed, but slightly shorter in length than the 20s. There was softness in the fabric that was not around in the 20s. Soft caps became popular, particularly for the casual outfits.

 

In the 40s, the width of the suits remain until War causes shortages. Men's sleeves, jackets and pants get shorter during war. Hat brims widen and soft felt hats are even more popular. Suit coats come in multi-tones (different chest fabric than sleeve fabric). Sweaters are acceptable for everyday wear. 

 

The New look brings in the suit coats slightly. The pants gets narrower and cuffs are small.

 

In the 50s, suit coats continue to get narrower (as women's silhouettes get bigger). Lapels are slimmer, pants and ties are narrower. Suit coats button higher up on the chest than before. 

 

In the 60s, with the politcal rebellion of war (Vietnam), we shift back to a boxy silhouette. Lapels are still narrow on suit coats. Music groups like the Beatles cause fashion trends in male clothing. Pull-over boxy shirts are worn with Bermuda shorts.

 

In the 70s, Suit coats get an excessive attention to detail and decoration. Patch pockets are sewn on the outside, pants get large cuffs, and rabbit ear collars exist.

 

In the 80s, mens clothing becomes even more casaul with the trend of exercise wear. Men wear t-shirts with suit coats. Color and pattern of the 70s goes away but men overdo it on the accessories. A preppy look is trend with multiple popped collars. Mens suits slim down again.

 

In the 90s, we return to very light suit fabrics that are flowy and casual.